This old Hordes – Landscaping

To help Crump with “All-Based 2012”, I figured this would be a good place to start. Great Landscaping often increases the value of property, and with minis it’s no different.

I’ve decided to go with an Autumn theme with my circle. Along with my usual assortment of tools, I’ve brought along some other hobby products;

  • Army Painter Winter Tufts
  • Secret Weapon Master-craft scenics ; fallen leaves – Fall mix
  • Sand (from a river)
  • Sand (from the beach)
  • Brush Bristles
  • Woodland Scenics “realistic water”
  • Sticks form the yard(oak)
  • Cork sheet 1/4″
  • a couple Deep dish bases (for water) They come from various manufacture, I cast my own.


So let’s get started

The first step is going to be to  cut the cork rings for our water bases. to do this I simply paint the ring of the base with a wash, then flip it upside down and press it onto the cork. cut out the inside of the resulting coffee ring and it should fit into the base perfectly. Since the wash is still wet, you cna just wipe it off the ring.




Superglue it into the base, and then pick away at the edges. This clumpy area will become out shore line soon. I guess this is as good a place as any for a small rant. I’ve always felt that cork rocks look horrible and that cork does a poor job of being rocks. It makes great broken concrete or clumpy dirt though.




quick stump tutorial

1 find sticks. break them

2 saw them in half and pin them (shorter stumps look better, adding one or two long ones to break it up is OK)

3 add a small snake of green stuff around the base

4 using your thumb or finger, blend the ring into the stump. Just push in and drag your finger to the top, continue to drag past the greenstuff so that you don’t leave fingerprints.

5 Place it into the base.

6 take the back end of a paintbrush, wet it and push it into the greenstuff ring. You can see the roots starting to form.

7 continue around the stump, pushing the brush into the green stuff. space the indentions around it differently. in some places you’ll have to “pull” the roots out with the back end of the brush. Lastly lightly tap a lot fo the roots and the base of the stump with the brush. this will add a little bit of texture and help to match it up to the actual wood.

Next, let’s talk about the types of sand.  While you can go with the prefab stuff that you can buy at hobby stores, I prefer to go find mine.  I like to use river sand, while it has some fine bits, it also has some nice chunky varied pieces in it which break up the ground form being so uniform. …That and it’s free. As for the other part, I like to use beach sand, it’s usually much more fine and uniform.




Here we’ve applied sand, Riversand to everything that’s above water level, beachsand to everything that’s below it. The reduced size of the beachsand grains helps to create an illusion of depth. Also note that I’ve scraped away the sand in several spots while the glue is wet. These flat spots will give a better surface for the winter tufts to adhere to.




Primed and  Basecoat done. Since I’m going for an autumn theme, I decided to go with a more reddish-brown to blend the leaves a little more.

The colors I used are Bootstrap leather and washed with Devlan Mud/Agrax Earthshade. Stumps are later painted Bastion Grey as dead wood is often more grey than brown.




Now let’s test-fit the minis. (note that their feet are pinned) and paint the rings. I test fit so that I can go ahead and paint the arcs.





Now that the rings are done, remove the minis and add the grass to the flat spots. The winter tufts are adhesive backedso there’s no need for glue in this step. I’ve also found that 2-3 smaller clumps pushed into a large flat space work better than one large piece as the dirrection of the grass blades changes a bit more.




Using PVA glue liberally, I added a lot of leaves to the base, I like to usually “bump” a pile of leaves against another terrain feature like the wind has blown them up against it. After that I break up any large flat “dirt spaces” with a little more leaves.





Once the clue is dry under the leaves, I water down some elmer’s glue 50/50 and paint it over the leaves to seal them in. While it looks rough in this picture,  the elmers drys clear and it’s pretty thin.





When it comes to water effects I like to use  deep dish bases so I can actually make them a little deeper. I added some brush bristles to look like weeds. less is more in this case and you want to vary the length. The first step I use in water effects is always to add a layer filled up to the rim mixed with a little devlan mud(dark brown wash). This will help create the illusion of depth. I also like to add a little water foliage (oregano)  and submerge it in the first layer. Keep in mind that water effects has about 50-75% shrinkage.




From there I continue to add layers of clear water effects , every one up to the lip of the base while wet, until I’ve built it up fairly close to level with the base (4 more layers after the wash layer). For the final layer You need to fill it a little over the base, using the fluid’s meniscus so that it doesn’t spill over. I added some leaves to the 5th clear layer and let it sit overnight. the result is as you see.




Hope this was helpful. See you guys in a week.

Author: Bloodshovel

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